Helmsley All Saints

Name: All Saints'

Date of Temple Moore Work: 1909

Work done: designs and interior

Church Description

Temple Moore's designs for the interior of All Saints' add an understated touch to its lavish decor.

Moore supplied the charming design for the ceiling of the north aisle, along with the high altar and reredos. The last two are in wood. They were made for Moore by Robert “Mousey” Thompson, the celebrated furniture maker of Kilburn. Both feature his characteristic adzed finish. Look out for his well-known trademark, a little carved wooden mouse. It appeared on everything he made.

Opening times: Please see www.helmsleyparish.org.uk for information.

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Helmsley's parish church belongs to the first flourishing of the Gothic Revival. It was built in a 13th-century style between 1866 and 1869. Something about its size and solidity seems to evoke that high noon of mid-Victorian imperial self-confidence. Temple Moore's interior decor exudes the same spirit, even though it was done in the Edwardian twilight of 1909.

At one time the parish of Helmsley was the largest in England. Vicar Gray was obviously keen to equip it with a church that was in keeping with its importance. Besides employing Moore's services at the church, he had previously commissioned him to design and build a new vicarage, which is similarly ambitious in size and appearance.

Before you look up at the ceiling, you may have your eye taken by the murals on the north wall. They were designed by Vicar Gray himself and painted by one Mr Gast, a London artist. They fell foul of damp and crumbling plaster in the decades after they were painted, so in 1949 they were repainted in oils.

Things to do nearby

Helmsley Castle

Castlegate Helmsley YO62 5AB

01439 770442

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/helmsley-castle

A thousand years of Yorkshire weather haven't quite finished off this splendid old ruin. It was built after the Norman Conquest by the Bond-villainesque-sounding Walter L'Espec. In Tudor times it was converted into a mansion, but it could still hold its own as a military fortress, as it showed during the English Civil War when it was besieged by Parliamentarian troops. The Royalist forces inside held out for three months before surrendering. Parliament ordered that the castle's defences should be partially demolished, and they have remained in a state of romantic dilapidation ever since. Complete wheelchair (and pushchair) access at ground level. English Heritage members get in free.

Sutton Bank

Sutton Bank National Park Centre Sutton Bank Thirsk YO7 2EH

01845 597426

http://www.northyorkmoors.org.uk/sutton-bank-256

James Herriot thought it the finest view in England, and who's arguing? The extraordinary panorama from Sutton Bank takes in a huge swathe of North Yorkshire, from the pancake-flat Vale of York in the south, the more undulating countryside of the Vale of Mowbray and the distant Pennines. A couple of miles away is the famous White Horse of Kilburn. A mile or so in the other direction is Lake Gormire, one of only four natural lakes in Yorkshire. (The others are Semerwater, Malham Tarn and Hornsea Mere, in case you're wondering.) Add the towering crags of Roulston Scar and the Whitestone Cliff and you have plenty to keep you occupied for hours. If the weather forces you inside, the National Park Centre has recently had a hi-tech revamp. It's a good way of getting to know the North York Moors.

Rievaulx Abbey

Rievaulx Nr Helmsley YO62 5LB

01439 798228

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/rievaulx-abbey

Rievaulx Abbey was once among the finest in Europe, and its atmospheric ruins still convey a sense of what it was like in its prime. Worth visiting for the location alone: beautiful riverside fields in the emerald depths of Ryedale. On the hillside above the abbey are the National Trust-owned Rievaulx Terrace and Temples, a contrasting bit of 18th-century classical landscaping with fine views.

Mouseman Visitor Centre

Kilburn YO61 4AH

01347 869100

http://www.robertthompsons.co.uk/

Former workshop of the celebrated Arts and Crafts furniture maker Robert “Mousey” Thompson. The mouse theme comes from his trademark, a little wooden mouse that he carved on every piece he made. The visitor centre commemorates his life and work. Furniture is still made in his name at the new workshop over the road. It's as beautiful as it is expensive. Unsurprisingly the bestselling item in the shop is also the cheapest - a Mouseman napkin ring. Look out for the wooden mice dotted all over Kilburn, from the days when Mouseman pieces were more affordable. Even if your pockets won't stretch to it, it's definitely worth a call in, just to admire to gorgeous craftsmanship.

Cleveland Way

http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/clevelandway

Britain's second National Trail, a 109-mile circuit of the North York Moors starting in Helmsley and finishing in Filey. You needn't commit yourself to the whole lot - turn sections into a circular day-walk. The opening stretch from Helmsley to Rievaulx Abbey is very doable for any moderately energetic person, although you will have to come back the way you went.

Roseberry Topping

Newton-under-Roseberry

01723 870423

http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/roseberry-topping

Many a budding mountaineer has cut his or her teeth climbing Roseberry Topping, known affectionately as the “Yorkshire Matterhorn” on account of its distinctive profile. This pint-size mini mountain (all 1,049 feet/320 m of it) can be seen from miles around, and the graffiti on the summit is a slightly depressing testament to its popularity. But don't let that put you off: the view is stupendous, the climb is fairly easygoing, the bluebell woods at the foot are gorgeous, and the countryside around about is sublime. National Park car park in Newton-under-Roseberry.

Helmsley Walled Garden

Cleveland Way Helmsley YO62 5AH

01439 771427

http://www.helmsleywalledgarden.org.uk/

One of Helmsley's hidden gems, tucked out of sight under the castle ramparts. The Walled Garden was created to supply fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers to the Duncombe Park estate. It fell into disuse in the 1970's, but in 1994 a determined band of local enthusiasts set out to restore it to its former glory. Today it is once again a working kitchen garden, where you can choose from a huge range of plants, vegetables, and seasonal fruits, or just savour the wonderfully tranquil atmosphere. The Vinehouse cafe serves delicious vegetarian food using produce grown in the garden.

Where to eat and drink

Rievaulx Abbey

Rievaulx Nr Helmsley YO62 5LB

01439 798228

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/rievaulx-abbey

Rievaulx Abbey was once among the finest in Europe, and its atmospheric ruins still convey a sense of what it was like in its prime. Worth visiting for the location alone: beautiful riverside fields in the emerald depths of Ryedale. On the hillside above the abbey are the National Trust-owned Rievaulx Terrace and Temples, a contrasting bit of 18th-century classical landscaping with fine views.

The Black Swan

Helmsley YO62 5BJ

01439 770466

http://www.blackswan-helmsley.co.uk/

Upmarket inn with posh nosh.

The Feversham Arms

Helmsley YO62 5AG

01439 770 766

http://www.fevershamarmshotel.com/

Highly regarded luxury hotel with its own spa. The prices are not for the fainthearted, but the AA Hotel of the Year Award speaks up for the quality of the place.

The Feathers

Helmsley YO62 5BH

01439 770275

http://www.feathershotelhelmsley.co.uk/

A local's local, with unpretentious pub grub.

Teashops, many and various!

Helmsley

Helmsley is laden with genteel teashops, to the occasional chagrin of the locals and the delight of visitors. Too many to name - wander around and take your pick. Pinkies up!

Gepetto's

Helmsley YO62 5BG

01439 770479

http://www.gepettos-helmsley.co.uk/

Welcoming little Italian restaurant.

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